PICTURE SPECIAL: Monumental moment as replica ninth-century Pictish stone is unveiled at Halkirk

The sun shone brightly at Halkirk on Saturday for the official unveiling of an expertly carved replica of an ancient Pictish stone in Thurso’s museum.

The original ninth century Pictish cross slab Skinnet Stone is on show at the North Coast Visitor Centre in Thurso, but parts of it are missing and carvings eroded over time, so heritage sculptor David McGovern used his expertise to create the replica unveiled on Saturday at Morrison Park in Halkirk.

Speaking in his role as Lord Lieutenant of Caithness, Lord Thurso spoke to the assembled crowd before unveiling the 2.7m tall stone. “What a glorious morning. You’re not always guaranteed bright sunshine in a corner of Halkirk.

“This stone is one of a number that have been discovered in recent centuries and which we’re only now beginning to understand the importance of. The restoration includes some guesswork from a very good professional.

“It’s as good a representation as we’ll ever have of what the Skinnet Stone would have looked like when it was first created. It’s part of the rich heritage we have in Caithness of that Pictish period.

“I believe it will attract more tourists who will stay in the area rather than rush through.”

Thurso Castle, where Lord Thurso resides, had a similar stone on its grounds, which is now sitting alongside the original Skinnet Stone in Thurso. “The Ulbster Stone was transferred by my grandfather to the museum in Thurso and it is roughly comparable to this one. It forms one of three in the museum and there’s a fourth that’s been discovered, which will be revealed in June.”

Bishop of Moray, Ross and Caithness in the Scottish Episcopal Church, Mark Strange, spoke at the event and dedicated the stone with holy water. Referencing the strange story of an early predecessor called Bishop Adam, who was killed by an angry mob in Halkirk in 1222, he said: “The bishop at the time probably wanted a bit more money than he needed from the locals.

“They went and had a blether to the earl who, probably quite flippantly said, ‘Just go and boil him in butter’ and that’s exactly what they did. The bishops did not survive long in Caithness, and the legend is that’s why the cathedral’s in Dornoch and not Caithness – they felt safer there.”

The name ‘Skinnet’ is usually translated as ‘shining water’ and may originally been dedicated to Thomas a’ becket who was canonised in 1173. The chapel fell into disuse after the murder of Bishop Adam. There is an underground flagstone-lined tunnel connecting the chapel to Braal Castle in Halkirk.

Regarding Saturday’s dedication ceremony, he added: “I don’t think I’ve ever blessed a stone, particularly a replication of something that was here. This is stunning, and it allows people to not simply see it but to touch it and feel part of it.”

Applauded as the ‘hero of the day’ was heritage stonemason David McGovern, who created the Skinnet Stone replica. “It took a year and two weeks to do,” he recalled.

“It’s made from a fine-grain sandstone and the only tools used for making it were pencil, hammer and chisel – exactly what they would have used in medieval times. If you look closely, you can see every chisel mark, and I haven’t polished them out.”

David said it was the “ideal commission” for him as it involved recreation of the original stone along with speculation from his years of study. “I’ve created a new design on an area that had completely gone, which includes 12 interlaced knots representing the disciples of Jesus and 4 double knots representing the evangelists.”

There are mythical creatures known as hippocamps on the stone, along with fanciful creations he added as the original had areas that had been lost to the ravages of time. The pair of hippocamps, or classical sea-horses, had not been officially recorded before.

“Putting the whole design back together with all of its convoluted animals, humans, interlace and spirals has been a wonderful detective exercise. Now, visitors can see what it might have looked like in the ninth century.”

The original cross-slab stone was discovered, close to the site where it is now positioned, at St Thomas Chapel in 1861. The Skinnet Stone is the only surviving Pictish sculpture featuring a wheeled vehicle – a chariot pulled by two horses.

The project was organised and the funds raised by the Northern Pilgrims' Way Group (NPWG), a volunteer group which has re-established the medieval pilgrimage route from Tain to Kirkwall. The new Skinnet Stone will be a landmark on that route. Funding included money from Halsary Windfarm Community Benefit (£4,361); Achlachan Wind Farm Community Fund (£6,081); and RWE Bad a Cheo Wind Farm Community Fund (£10,361).

There was also a grant from the Halkirk District Benefit Fund and Norbloc donated the cost of preparing the foundations and the siting of the monument. There are benches and information panels at the site as well.

Jane Coll, NPWG secretary, rang a replica medieval bell to announce the moment the stone would be unveiled and spoke about the travails of the project. “Barbara van Rooyen, our chair, was here earlier but is attending to the lunches.

“On the day, lots of people congratulated me on the success of the project. While this was lovely, I did not do it on my own. There are seven trustees in the group who all contributed to this success, especially our chairperson.

“It’s taken us three years to get this organised. It took quite a long time for the stonemason to find the right type of stone and then just over a year to do the carving. It’s been an expensive project, and we’re happy that the Halkirk Community Sports Foundation leased us the ground for free.

“In round figures, it was around £35,000 in total, and all but £300 was sourced locally. This is the biggest thing we’ve done by far, and I’m just over the moon about it all. I’m relieved the formalities are over and the stone arrived undamaged.

“It’s only about a quarter of a mile away from its original setting down by the river. It had been attached to the wall of St Thomas’ Chapel. We had 38 special guests today, and there was a general invitation for all interested to come along. I want to thank everyone for supporting us and making it such a wonderful day. Everything’s gone very smoothly.”

Jane said that the NPWG has been doing extensive studies of the early saints associated with Caithness and the north Highlands and welcomes new members.

Caithness, Sutherland and Ross MSP Maree Todd was another special guest at the event and said: “I’m very moved by the sheer beauty of this monument. It’s absolutely spectacular, and the intricate carvings are really beautiful. It’s such an asset to the community here.

“My mum was a lecturer in Celtic studies at Aberdeen University and knew a lot more about the Pictish people than I do. I think a lot of people in the Highlands, where many of these stones have been discovered, will be interested in seeing it.”

Wick’s provost, Cllr Jan McEwan, was also in the party of specially invited guests and said: “This is an amazing day for Halkirk and the rest of Caithness with the unveiling of the Skinnet Stone.

“The sculptor has done a fabulous job, and it’s great to see there’s a fair crowd who have turned up to see it.”

Cllr Karl Rosie from Thurso has previously worked to promote the NPWG and said he was “absolutely delighted to see a fantastic turnout” on the day.

“I’m even more pleased for Jane Coll and the other committee members,” he said. “They set a target and achieved it in three years. It’s a remarkable landmark and a good example of how people can work together in Caithness.”

Jane from NPWG added: “The 'new' stone will be a monument to both past peoples and today's locals for the next 1000 years.”

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