OUT AND ABOUT WITH RALPH: Winds of change as paddling plan aborted
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There have been a few lovely calm days in between the gales. Make the most of them! But even I’m guilty of not always getting it right, which is how I came to be cycling in a force eight when I could have enjoyed calm sunshine only two days earlier.
Came a settled Monday a couple of weeks ago. I’d try my first little adventure of the year with a paddle up the exposed and spectacular coast from Helmsdale to Berriedale – I’d even checked that the tide would be high in the afternoon as landing at Berriedale is tricky at low water.
My first glimpse of the sea, on crossing the Causewaymire, was not encouraging, there was a bit too much white for my liking. Nevertheless, I carried on with my plan, leaving the bike by the little Berriedale Harbour so I could cycle over and pick up the car after the paddle.
The sun was just coming up at Helmsdale and a light southerly breeze had lifted the frost. I packed the boat, taking so much safety gear these days that an observer might think I was going camping! But then over the years I’ve needed most of it at some time or other.
The first couple of miles on leaving the sheltered harbour are relatively easy, a shore of stony beaches and rocky points. The southerly wind though had raised a small swell of about a metre, with a lot of little white-capped waves and small breakers.
Theoretically I’m qualified to lead a group in such sea conditions but this was my first sea-paddle of the year and the combination of dazzling sun with sudden larger waves breaking over the boat from the side was a bit unnerving.
Further on, the coast gets much more committing with high cliffs and the likelihood of bigger waves and more confused water.
I’d probably have been OK… but the key word is "probably". At the very least it would be nerve-racking and in no way a relaxing trip.
I landed on the bouldery shore near Ord Point – it would have counted as a difficult landing in the sea-leadership assessment – had another look at the sea, and turned back. With the wind and waves against me it took twice as long to paddle back to the welcome shelter of the Helmsdale harbour.
I ate my packed lunch in the very civilised setting of a picnic bench overlooking the sea.
I could yet make something of the afternoon on a rare sunny day. I’m still getting the measure of the e-bike and wanted to try it out on Berriedale – and yes, I could actually enjoy cycling up the steep hills of the Ord.
Where the new road turns downhill towards Navidale a cycle route follows the old road, sadly very little-used with the initial section now grassed-over.
North of Navidale the highest tarred road in the north climbs up to radio masts on the 1300-foot Creag Ord. The main gate is locked but a narrow side gate gives access for cyclists and walkers who can then enjoy an easy climb to the summit on a road in better condition than most in Caithness.
Suddenly you’re high on the moors with views up the long Kildonan Strath and out over the sea. The scene was one of wintry yellows and browns illuminated by low sun, a few patches of white still lingering.
An enjoyable fast descent and ride back over the Ord took me down to Berriedale – one of my favourite spots, you always want to linger on a fine late afternoon with the river rushing into the sea below bare birches scented with leaf mould. The A9 is another world.
And how would the e-bike fare in a force eight? I used to manage to cycle, very slowly, to Dounreay in such conditions… so now I pedalled straight into the gale up Scrabster Brae. Even with the bike set to maximum ’turbo’ power some effort was needed but I was making 8mph rather than three.
On over the top and down the Forss straight with the gale blasting into my face, pedalling almost as if it were a calm day. By Dounreay half the battery had already been used… so I turned for home, taking the familiar Broubster road.
The Bailie wind-farm turbines were turned off when they should have been generating at their most efficient, the grid being vastly over-subscribed. Which just shows the folly of putting any more wind turbines in Caithness. I, though, could certainly make use of wind-power on the ride home, reaching over 30mph on the long straights into Halkirk!
