Out and About With Ralph: Feeling swell on gentle paddle down Thurso River
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Packing all the gear is the hardest part of a relaxing river journey to the north coast at Thurso Bay
It’s probably about the least adventurous trip a local kayaker can do. Some experience of rivers is useful, but the paddle downstream from Halkirk to Thurso is a relaxing journey with just one or two little rapids and weirs to add a small amount of excitement.
Indeed I like to take the sea boat as there is then plenty of room in the hatches for some food and spare clothing.
A downside is the amount of organisation needed for kayak trips like this, it probably takes more time to set up the journey than is actually spent on the water.
There’s nothing really to beat just going out for a walk, an activity which involves minimal cost and almost no preparation time!
So with a car full of gear including boat, bike and two helmets I drove down to Braal to unload the boat, buoyancy aid, spray deck, dry suit… then head off to Thurso to take the bike down from the roof and leave the car.
Next, cycle back to Halkirk, a nice ride on a calm, sunny morning except for the low sun straight ahead, giving a risk of being mown down from behind by dazzled drivers. I made sure to be wearing a bright yellow reflective jacket as well as my helmet.
Safely down to Braal – the horrendous potholes on this road another hazard – I could at last put my paddling gear on, change bike helmet for boat helmet and push out into the gentle rapids on a sunny late November morning.
Going down an easy river is about my level of paddling. There’s no need to work hard to keep up with others and even when just sitting in the boat the scenery drifts effortlessly past. There’s plenty of time to stop whenever I like and enjoy a cup of tea or a bite to eat in the sunshine.
Although passing through farmland and not far from roads or railway, the river always feels surprisingly peaceful and remote. Of course, the Thurso is a famous salmon river but there is no problem paddling in the close season after the beginning of October. You can even shelter in one of the frequent fishing huts.
Small flocks of mallard and wigeon took off and flew round me and up the river. The resident dipper at Geise flew upstream fast, low over the water. Half a dozen white whooper swans passed low overhead, always a lovely sight and sound.
There are several small weirs, best is just to paddle hard across where the water is running fast and be prepared with support strokes as a long sea boat is easily knocked sideways by hidden rocks. Slightly more water in the river would have helped, but there was enough. Long flat stretches, where a sea boat is really appreciated, lie between the short rapids.
After the wide bends through the grasslands around the ruined Bleachfield farm, the banks steepen as you approach Thurso. A roar ahead signifies the biggest weir by the salmon pool, but you can cross it easily in the middle then turn the boat round and use the recirculating water to paddle back up to the water pouring across, if you get it right you can enjoy the strange experience of sitting in the boat right under the weir without having to paddle. Paddling backwards then takes you back into the current.
I always like the last stretch, under the upper footbridge and down the mall with all the dog-walkers, then on under the road bridge. If the tide is low there’s another little rapid here, this time the water was smooth at mid-tide and I carried on under the footbridge and out past the harbour onto a glassy sea.
Occasional swells breaking at Thurso East and the Pipe were enough to have enticed out a few surfers, I took a big sweep out to avoid the waves then headed across the bay into the low, dazzling sun. Long-tailed ducks are very characteristic of Thurso Bay in winter and were already making their strange yodelling call from small groups on the water.
I could have waited for a big wave to surf into the beach – but I’d kept dry until now so took the easy option of timing my landing between the sets.
Now just to haul the boat up the beach, fasten it to the car roof and change out of sweaty clothes. A coffee and a cake seemed a good idea, in keeping with such a gentle trip, before driving back to Halkirk to retrieve the bike.
