JOANNE HOWDELL: Much to sweetly savour in a member of the celery family

Beautiful Botanics: Sweet Cicely – The Botanical Traditionally Grown Near The Kitchen Door

Sweet cicely (Myrrhis odorata) is a herbaceous perennial plant belonging to the celery family Apiaceae. In Scotland, sweet cicely which can grow up to 2 metres in height was traditionally planted near the kitchen door in cottage gardens where it could easily be grabbed and added to food. The pollen-rich white flowers of the botanical which open in May and flower until late June attract bees, and other pollinators including butterflies, moths, and birds. Sweet cicely grows well in partial shade and tolerates most soils. The botanical will grow through grass and in hedgerows and in Scotland can be found in woodland and on hillsides. Sweet cicely is hardy and can survive in temperatures below minus 15 degrees Celsius, so it is almost indestructible once established. When brushed against or picked, the leaves of the botanical give off a sweet, aniseed scent, which is the unique signature of the plant.

Native to the mountains of Central and Southern Europe, from the Caucasus to the Pyrenees sweet cicely was introduced into Northern Europe during the Middle Ages. The botanical was grown in monastic gardens probably for its’ use as a medicinal herb. The leaves, seeds, and roots, of sweet cicely contain the minerals – calcium, iron, and potassium and are a good source of Vitamin A and Vitamin C, both of which provide antioxidant benefits. Sweet cicely has a settling effect on the stomach so has long been used in the manufacture of digestifs to help improve digestion, increase appetite, and relieve flatulence. The botanical is also a mild diuretic and is often utilised in traditional medicine for detoxification. Traditional medical practitioners also use sweet cicely as a treatment for asthma, to ease the symptoms of colds, and ease coughs. During the Middle Ages the botanical was also used as a strewing herb, which means that sweet cicely was scattered on the floors of houses, public buildings and places of worship with other scented botanicals so that their pleasant smell wafted up when walked on, thereby masking the odour of unwashed bodies and livestock. Today when dried, both the leaves and seeds of sweet cicely are used in the manufacture of potpourri, and products used to cleanse wooden surfaces.

The leaves, seeds, and roots of sweet cicely are all edible and the flavour of the botanical is often described as being like anise (Pimpinella anisum), also known as aniseed or fennel (Foeniculum vulgare). Sweet cicely leaves are full of the essential oil anethole, which has antifungal, antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties and is also responsible for the botanical’s sweetness. The natural sweetness of sweet cicely leaves mean they are often used to reduce sugar in recipes involving stewing tart fruits such as blackcurrants, gooseberries, redcurrants, and rhubarb. The young leaves of sweet cicely make a nice addition to summer salads, dips, and fruit salads. The leaves are also used as part of a bouquet garni in fish dishes, soups, and stews. The leaves of sweet cicely are often added to jellies to give a hint of aniseed, whilst the roots of young plants also make an interesting substitute for parsnips.

Sweet cicely is one of the main ingredients in Chartreuse, a French herbal liqueur which has been made by Carthusian monks since 1737. In gin manufacture sweet cicely adds a strong aniseed smell to the spirit and a very sweet, but slight aniseed taste to the gin.

Joanne Howdle is Interpretation and Engagement Manager at the multi award-winning Dunnet Bay Distillers Ltd.

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