Duncansby lighthouse centenary 'a momentous occasion' for John O'Groats
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The centenary of Duncansby Head lighthouse is “a momentous occasion” for John O'Groats, guests were told at the start of a three-day festival marking the occasion.
The lighthouse itself was the focal point of the weekend celebrations with a spectacular night-time lighting and sound installation staged by Lyth Arts Centre.
The busy programme also included talks, creative workshops, readings and a poetry walk.
The Duncansby light first shone out across the Pentland Firth on March 15, 1924, so Friday's launch event in Café Groats took place on the actual anniversary.
Local businessman Walter Mowat, chairman of John O'Groats Development Trust and one of the festival organisers, told the audience about the history of the 100-year-old beacon.
“It's a momentous occasion here for John O'Groats,” Mr Mowat said. “Robert Louis Stevenson said that the Pentland Firth was 'the grave of mariners', so that tells you a story in itself.”
He explained that the first lighthouse in the Pentland Firth was the Pentland Skerries, constructed in 1794.
“In 1921 they decided to start the lighthouse here and it was a firm from Edinburgh called Finlayson that built it,” Mr Mowat said.
The stone for the houses where the lighthouse families would live came from a local quarry.
“It was a benefit to local people,” Mr Mowat went on. “They were used as labour, so the local people were paid a shilling an hour.
“If you had a horse and cart you were paid a pound a day – and of course everything had to be carted up there.”
A lighthouse store was also built nearby and all the supplies were brought in by sea at that time. Before there was a piped supply, water came from a well at Sannick and a windmill pumped the water up to the lighthouse.
Mr Mowat pointed out: “If you're up at Duncansby Head you can see nine lighthouses flashing at you every night. You'll see Noss Head, Duncansby itself, the Pentland Skerries, Copinsay, Swona, Cantick Head, Stroma, Tor Ness and Dunnet.
“There are other lights as well, beacons that are flashing on some of the rocks that are around. There are probably four or five beacons over and above that.”
Mr Mowat told guests that the 1926 Monte Carlo Rally had started from John O'Groats: “The idea of coming to an extremity like this was that the more mileage you did, the more points you got on your way to Monte Carlo.”
A Scottish driver ended up winning the event, having added four extra miles to his journey by taking a detour up to Duncansby Head.
Mr Mowat also told a World War II spy story involving the lighthouse.
“During the early part of the war there was a spy around here,” Mr Mowat said. “He was a piano tuner and he went around on his bike.
“He stayed in one of the wee crofts up at Huna and he was captured up at the lighthouse taking note of the movements of shipping.”
Mr Mowat also revealed how he prevented the Duncansby foghorn from being scrapped in 2000 by buying it and keeping it safely at home for about 20 years. Eventually it was painted and installed near the seafront at John O'Groats.
Lord Thurso, the Lord-Lieutenant of Caithness, said it was “wonderful” to see so many people present who had a direct connection to the lighthouse.
“We had hoped that the patron of the Northern Lighthouse Board, the Princess Royal, might have been able to come but it was not possible,” Lord Thurso said. “And so on her behalf I would very much like to say how much she would have enjoyed and appreciated it, had she been able to get here.
“I know she is with us in spirit and would wish everybody here to have a tremendous time.
“It is a wonderful testament to the community of John O'Groats to have had the lighthouse here. A hundred years ago my mother would have been six and my father would have been two, so it is in their lifetimes, and that brings it a little bit closer.
“It is very much part of the community. What a splendid event to have put on.”
Mike Bullock, Edinburgh-based chief executive of the Northern Lighthouse Board, said: “This is such a special event and it is a great honour for us to be part of it. It's really exciting for us that the community has come together,
“It has been great hearing from Walter about the community involvement of the lighthouse over the century.
“The Northern Lighthouse Board was all about community. It brought jobs to the area, it brought people to the area, it brought youngsters to the school.
“Obviously things have changed in the service. We no longer have lightkeepers, but we do have dedicated professional technicians and engineers who look after these stations.”
Ian Leith, a trustee of John O'Groats Development Trust, had earlier welcomed guests and introduced the speakers. He was pleased to welcome some former lightkeepers.
Mr Leith thanked Lyth Arts Centre for putting on the lighting and sound installation Duncansby Light at Night.
“We are very grateful and indebted to the Northern Lighthouse Board for all the support they've given to this weekend,” he said.
Those taking part in the three days of activities included author Donald S Murray, artists Kate Leiper, Katie Squires, Laura O’Kane and Aimee Lockwood and poets Katharine Macfarlane and George Gunn.
Businesses in John O’Groats were open throughout the weekend, offering food, drink and crafts.
- Support and collaboration came from Lyth Arts Centre, John O’Groats Development Trust, John O’Groats Book Festival, John O’Groats businesses and local primary schools. Financial support was provided by Creative Scotland, Historic Environment Scotland, the Northern Lighthouse Board, Scottish Book Trust, North Highland Initiative and Foundation Scotland.
