A walk through the rich history of Achscrabster
Register for free to read more of the latest local news. It's easy and will only take a moment.
Bill Brown takes a leisurely stroll through the area around Achscrabster quarry, describing the buildings along the way and recalling some of the local characters from through the years
Achscrabster quarry is approached from the inland road from Thurso to Reay down the single-track road signed “Achscrabster”, three miles from Thurso. A mile from the road end on the left is my house, a stone-built property with “Dunvegan 1935” above the front door. This was built for George MacLeod the quarry master to retire to, using his own workers to build from his own quarry stone.
The mason doing the plastering above the door asked George what he wanted to name his house. George had not thought about that and the mason said: “What about Dunvegan? That’s the home of the MacLeods.” And it has been “Dunvegan” ever since.
The cottage next door was part derelict, with a cattle byre and dairy near to us.
The next house round at the back was the home of Sandy Grant, the local joiner, and his wife Chrissie the Post, who delivered the mail on an old upright cycle. The joiner shop was attached, and smiddy to the side, where the blacksmith was Jimmy Dundas. This pair formed a significant manufacturing enterprise, making complete farm carts by order, and almost anything requiring wood and iron.
Leaving there and bearing right, on the left are the ruins of the quarry buildings. The engine shop contained stone-working machinery. Attached would be offices for administering the quarry. At that time the quarry had a contract for tarring roads, and indeed tarred the Dounreay airfield runway. The square chimney was for a fire to melt the tar from the shovels used in this work. Prominent to the side is a round windmill tower to pump water from the workings.
Continuing, on the left is Quarry Cottage. Originally this comprised two cottages with their gable ends to the road, now joined together. The first cottage was occupied by Pilot Henderson and his wife Zetta, and the second by Angie Macleod, also known by Turls since he wrote “Yours turly” instead of “Yours truly” in a school lesson on letter-writing. Also known as Thooms (Thumbs) on account of having two thumbs on each hand.
We then reach the ruins of Martha’s cottage. This had a fertile tree-sheltered garden that still grows blue and also white bluebells and daffodils.
Turning left, the road continues to rise and passes a quarry on the right. This quarry supplied domestic water to Achscrabster farm before mains water became available.
We continue until a view opens up over a large part of Caithness. Three ruins are seen before us. The nearest one was the cottage of John McPhee and wife Mary Anne. Their only means of transport was their pony and trap.
He was known by association with his craft as a tinker, making and selling tinware locally. Accordingly, in the same form as “Jimmy ’e Post”, he was always known as Jock followed by the shortened reference to his craft. It identifies him uniquely from the many local Jock MacPhees.
At one time a quarrel broke out and the coffin was knocked over, giving the Gaelic name.
To the left, near the horizon, is Tor na Kiest. It was a resting place for funeral corteges whenever they walked to the burial ground. At one time a quarrel broke out and the coffin was knocked over, giving the Gaelic name, the overturning of the chest or coffin. Nearer to us and down in the hollow to the left are the ruins of Liz Fraser’s cottage.
Following the track downhill and turning right there lie the ruins of another building. This time it is not a cottage but more like a stone shed with flat roof, one window and, strangely, two doorways. This anomaly is explained as one window was opened out, forming a doorway, and was used for a while as an animal shelter. Here dwelt Sandy Angus, or Sannyangis (the “g” not pronounced).
Carrying on, we cross between two lochans, then turn right and head towards a two-storey farmhouse and farm buildings. At one time the farm was powered by a water wheel, with water collected in a pond nearby. The wheel is long gone now but was still there in 1960. The availability of electricity had rendered it more economic, and in summer there was often insufficient water. The storage pond remains, but is dry, as the retaining wall has been removed.
That ends the description of the Achscrabster quarry and surrounding area.
- Thanks are due to the following who gave me much of the information above: Henry and Margaret Mill of Rowanburn, Achnavast; Ronnie Henderson of Upper Burnside, Thurso.
