South to Keiss with the John O'Groats ranger
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There is little parking available in Freswick, so it is better to walk this section from north to south. It does mean, however, that you have to be a bit of an early bird for a morning walk as the number 77 leaves the Old Garage in Keiss at 8.47. There is a later bus at 13.21, and the walk is possible in an afternoon.
Seven minutes later you are at Skirza Rd End, where after a short you will find a path signposted down a lane to Freswick Beach.
Freswick Beach has been alive with Ringed Plovers all winter and these will be starting to nest now with the recent improved weather. They nest amongst the stones on the beach and you would be hard-pressed to see them, disguised as they are like small pebbles. Like little clockwork toys they will run from you at first, only taking to the wing at the last minute.
Along the usually deserted beach you approach Freswick House. If you don’t mind a paddle and the tide is low, cross the burn low down the beach. Alternatively you can enter the field to the north of the burn and join the track that allows you to cross the bridge and, turning round the north side of this impressive tower through a gate, re-join the trail on the shore side. The tower has a complicated history; parts of it have been occupied since Norse times
Volunteers have made a good job of the bridge that crosses the mill-lade from the house and above this you will be on cliff-tops all the way now until Keiss: prepare to enjoy it, there’s a lot to see.
Beware of rocks in the grass as you begin the cliff-top section. The wall has collapsed a little and they provide a potential trip hazard. The cliffs are steep and undercut so keep as far from the edge as you can.
Ancient history is right here with the first of the brochs excavated by Francis Tress-Barry of Keiss, who did a lot of work to uncover the brochs all along this section of coast. Most of his excavations are marked by these small stone towers with interesting carvings done by another local name, John Nicholson of Auckengill.
Progressing round Ness Head, black skerries mark the headland of Buchollie Castle. Once home to the legendary pirate Sweyn, reputedly the ancestor of the Swansons, Buchollie arises dramatically out of natural rock, with buttresses rising and merging into the stonework of the castle itself, as if itself the work of a master mason. The strata of the rock on which it sits are largely level, yet all around it the rocks are twisted and tangled by some ancient cataclysm. A braver walker can enter the castle via a narrow walkway, but take care, especially when wet.
Heading south the walk is all about the coastline. The geos were used as harbours by the locals: slippery steps lead into Samuel’s Geo and Nybster itself has a harbour still. More of John Nicholson’s work can be seen here. One tower is in line with the Halfway House (now the Caithness Broch Centre) providing guiding lights for homecoming boats when lit, while the other used to house a barometer for local fishermen. The most elaborate of Nicholson’s work, the Mervyn Tower, celebrates the location of Nybster Broch just beyond the car park.
The path winds south past raised geometric beaches and towers of rock, each one worth investigating with care as the cliffs are steep and high. Hidden amongst the stacks are incredible arches which will soon be buzzing with bird life.
Although boggy at times there are only short sections of narrow path, so this is one of the easier sections of the coast. Once you pass Keiss Castle, yet another dramatic structure clinging to these weather battered cliffs, the way is straightforward and easy going.
• Although originally from England, Jim Bunting’s love of the Highlands was cemented as a teenager when he visited Arisaig and saw Eigg and Rum. He has since spent many months walking and running over Scottish moors and mountains, finally moving to Scotland in 2017 to attempt to teach children to love the outdoors.
